TRAINING TIPS & FOOD SUGGESTIONS...                                                Why we feed our dogs RAW MEATY BONES...

Feeding Biologically-Appropriate Raw Food

The basis of the raw diet is that the acids inside a dog's stomach are strong enough to digest raw bone, but generally highly inefficient at digesting grain. If you look at a bag or can of prepared dog food, you'll see that one of the main ingredients is some form of grain product. Yet when you look at the diet of a wild wolf (the genetic predecessor of the domesticated dog), you see that they eat animal carcasses (bones and all), and no grain at all.

Deciding to feed raw is a very personal decision. The supporters of the raw diet feel that it makes for much healthier dogs, and dogs that are much less prone to illness and disabilities like arthritis and diabetes. Dogs fed on "raw meaty bones" also will never need to have their teeth cleaned, as the process of chewing raw bones leaves their teeth sparkling white, and their gums a wonderfully healthy pink in color. They also don't have that typical bad "doggy breath" that can be so unpleasant.

Another benefit of feeding raw is that the feces are small, do not smell much, and turn white and into powder within a day or so. Most folks are aware that they can tell when their dog has eaten premium dog food rather than regular dog food by the quantity of poop that results. The less the food is digested, the more that comes out the other end. This applies even more to dogs fed on the raw diet.

There is plenty of research you can do for yourself on the raw diet via the internet. We've given some links down below. You should be aware that there are variations of the diet, from folks who grind up vegetables (dog's stomachs need the vegetable fibers ground to digest them) to add to their dog food, to those who feed their dogs entire rabbit or even deer carcasses.

Please remember, however -- we are NOT feeding COOKED BONES -- only RAW BONES. Cooked bones get brittle, and it is the brittle splintered bone ends that can cause internal damage.

Some of the books and web sites that you can read are:

http://www.switchingtoraw.com/

http://www.rawlearning.com/

Dr. Ian Billinghurst is credited as being the founder of the current raw feeding movement. You can learn about him and his books at

http://www.drianbillinghurst.com/

There are also several email discussion groups dealing with the raw diet on www.yahoogroups.com. You can search for information from past articles, and ask questions in these groups.

Winterize Your Dogs and Protect Them From Winter's Bite

Beware of cold temperatures.

With proper shelter, many dogs can be safe in outside temperatures down to 20 degrees Fahrenheit.  However, puppies, smaller dogs and older dogs should not be left outdoors when the temperature falls below 40 degrees.  Shorthaired dogs can become immediately chilled after leaving the warm house, so they will need a sweater to go outside.

Keep older, arthritic dogs inside.

These dogs should not be left outside under any circumstances.  Escort the older dog outside for toileting and use a leash if the yard has ice or snow.  Older dogs can easily fall and seriously injure themselves.

Watch for signs of frostbite.

Dogs' ears, paws and tails are especially susceptible to frostbite.  Initially, frostbitten tissue may appear pale or gray in color.  The area will be cold to the touch, and hard.  As the area thaws, it may become red.  In severe frostbite, within several days the tissue will start to appear black.  If you suspect frostbite, bring your dog into a warm location and soak the affected area with lukewarm water for about 20 minuts and contact your veterinarian.

Eliminate the possibility of poisoning.

Unfortunately, dogs like the sweet taste of antifreeze, which can cause sickness or death if ingested.  Make certain that all antifreeze containers are well out of reach of dogs, and thoroughly clean any spills immediately.

Supply fresh water.

Use a plastic water bowl to ensure the dog's tongue does not get stuck to cold metal.  Change the water often to keep it from freezing.

PUPPY PROOFING YOUR HOUSE AND YARD

Remove potential hazards.

Anything that would make an enticing chew toy--such as power cords, potted house plants, shoes and clothing and anything "bite sized" that could be ingested by a curious puppy.  Outside, remove bite-size rocks, sticks, fertilizers, gardening tools and eqiupment.  Also, be mindful of toxic household and garage items, such as antifreeze, detergents and tobacco products.

Tips for the FIRST DAY HOME

Your pup will be excited and anxious in his new environment.  It is your job to make him feel safe and comfortable.

Be Patient.

Although accidents will happen, do not reprimand your puppy during the first 24-48 hours while he is acclimating to the new environment.  But do praise him profusely when he does something positive.

Structure is a must.

Have a planned schedule from the day your pup arrives--especially when trying to housebreak.  Take your puppy outside frequently, and stay with him so that you know he has toileted.

Getting acclimated.

It will take him some time.  Show your pup where he will be eating, sleeping and toileting.  As your puppy adapts to his new surroundings and routine, he will feel more comfortable.

Naps are important for a puppy.

Be sure to give him the space and time he needs to relax.  Try not to overwhelm your puppy.  He is like a new baby, and will need frequent naps throughout the day.

Start training early.

Dogs are pack animals and seek authority and reassurance from the pack leader.  Providing this leadership is key to managing a dog's behavior.